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20080716 - Designing a good theft deterrent (without using tear-gas). Print friendly aka - the killswitch this guide assumes basic knowledge of cars and circuit diagrams, but i have tried to gear it towards the beginner with links elsewhere for explaination, and if you dont understand something you can always try google. ok for starters, if someone wants your car bad enough, they will get it. ive done tow dispatching and we usually end up stealing 1-3 cars a year (accidently). most tow places use keys as a means of proof of ownership, otherwise we ask. but every once in a while 1 gets by (its the tow drivers responsibility to check). smarter thieves will unhook your linkage (about 45 seconds) put your car in nuetral, break the steering lock and push your car or towstrap it somewhere. these are rare, and not common with your average honda, but it can happen. these are not the people i am trying to protect your car from. im trying to stop the 85 percent of thieves that want to drive off with your car in 60 seconds, and offer advice to the 14 percent (crackheads) who just want to break your window and try and make off with your head unit. my personal favorite method is the killswitch. but jarrod, dont thieves look for killswitches? well sure, if they think you have one. but dont worry, i intend to cover all that. things youll need: 1 - a button or other activator. ha i got you there. we dont want a switch because they can accidently be left on. 2 - a relay. 3 - a diode. remember, your car runs off of 12 volts, so everything should be able to handle it. also your relay should be of good quality. if you dont have or know of someone with one floating around (free) then you might end up spending upwards of 20 bucks if you get a nice bosche one. if you do front some money on a bosche relay please visit the donation center of my sight, because you sound like you have money lying around. a note on the activator. my personal favorite activator is a magnetic reed switch (like the alarm company uses on windows and such to see if they are open). if you get a nice one (upwards of 2.95 at the home depot) you can glue it somewhere unique under your dash, although ive seen them put in strange places, and you can activate your killswitch with a magnet without any physical evidence that you even need a magnet to do so. just dont lose the magnet. i actually keep mine in the center console of the car (with some other random junk) and no car thief would ever realize it. and even if he did he would have to find the exact spot on the dash to run the magnet too. choosing which circuit you want to interrupt can have many different effects. i prefer to interrupt the fuel relay (depending on the year of the vehicle). why? simple. some jackass forces down or breaks your window, gets into your car and busts apart your steering column. now what does he do. he cranks the engine. and he cranks it some more. and again. by now 90 seconds have past and he is attracting attention to himself. he thinks he has just broken into a car with a no start condition, mainely because 95 percent of killswitches on the market are designed to interrupt the "car on" or starter wire. you can make your killswitch do that as well, but if you have electronic fuel injection, it is generally an easy circuit to interrupt. if you have a preference on circuits go for it. if you dont know where or how to start, goto well those bastards at eautorepair decided to make their shit a "subscription" on a "per vehicle" basis. basically you cant just go and download a guide... you "subscribe" to your vehicel, then you can download your guide, and the subscription is like 12 bucks for a week or something completely retarded. what a bunch of fucking retards. anyways, until i find a better place online to get a guide from, you can go there (if you want those commie bastards to win) or you can try google. good luck.
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CIRCUITS TO AVOID!!: 1. the computer. many cars behave wierdly when some components get power before the computer. i fried one and got really lucky at a junkyard, otherwise it would have been a 600 dollar mistake. 2. any circuit that does not lose power with the key, and preferebly a circuit that needs "car on", and not accessory, to have power. 3. any circuit associated with any stock or aftermarket security. mess something up there and you may end getting towed to a dealer. if you have any kind of decent stock security system you might just skip this guide and go download some porn. onto our killswitch circuit. here is your circuit (phear my leet paint skillz):
copywrite ngook.com circuit explained by point. 1. this is the positive (+) side of the circuit you want to interrupt. 2. this is your relay. your relay should have a diagram on it that looks very similar but with numbers like 33,87,87a and the like. the leads on the bottom of your relay should be labled. if that is starting to look very foriegn to you check out this page. 3. this leads to the circuit we are interrupting. 4. this is our activator, button, 2 loose wires we want to cross, or whatever. 5. this goes to ground. 6 and 8. This is our keepalive circuit. notice it connects after the relay. 7. this is our doide. insures proper direction of current, especially when we push our button at 4.
how it works. We turn on our key. We hit our button or run our magnet across our reed switch causing power to flow from our + through the relay to ground, activating it. This is the purpose of the diode at 7, to prevent current from bypassing our relay. when our relay activates power flows through point 6, past our diode, and into the relay switch, and to ground, keeping our circuit powered. We can now start our car. When the key goes off, the whole circuit loses power, our relay returns to a point of rest(off or open), and we must reapply power and push our button again.
faq about our circuit. 1. q: whats a soldering iron? a: seriously. 2. q: why cant we reconnect point 5 back into point 2-3 with a diode? a: electricity doesnt like to work that hard. electricity flows kinda like water. kinda. but the "pressure" at point 5 and 6 would be the same if point 5 went back into the main circuit. it simply wouldnt flow. 3. q: wont that make a short to ground? a: no. the relay adds resistance, and slows the flow. 4. q: when the circuit is on, wont it waste electricity? a: yes, but not much. your circuit is fused (at the vehicle fuse box). if you start blowing fuses you might consider the draw and add a resistor between the relay and point 5, but i have had my fuel relay circuit (not the pump, but the cars relay that turns on the whole efi system) set up in mine, and i havent blown anything. 5. q: where did you learn your leet paint skills? a: years of practice and not being able to afford photoshop. 6. q: where on your dashboard did you put your magnetic reed switch, and where do you live? a: i have a mailbomb with YOUR name on it. 7. q: how come everything on your site is lowercase? a: cause i like it that way. 8. q: hah! i found a stray capital letter! a: get laid. you need it.
install notes. 1. disconnect your battery, first thing. everytime you work on your cars electrical system with the battery hooked up, santa kicks a puppy. 2. wire your kill circuit way up under your dash. the harder it is to find the better your odds of your car staying where you parked it. 3. make everything look as stock as possible. stray wires scream follow me... follow me to that switch so cleaverly hidden under the dash. unless your wiring looks like my brothers bmw. he had done so much work he had a cluster of wires, and 80 percent of them didnt go anywhere, but they looked like they ran everywhere. it looks like a prototype for a time machine. it would have taken a bmw engineer 3 weeks to steal his car, and thats before he installed one of these. 4. solder is recommended, but not required. heatshrink is recommended, but at least electrical tape is required. heatshrink makes everything look nice and stock, and wont come undone over time. everytime you leave bare wires the tooth fairy beats a kitten. 5. you will need to dedicate at least an afternoon depending on your car, skill, and prepwork, but plan on a weekend just in case. build the circuit before you take your car apart, not during. it will be easier. you dont have to get fancy and i dont recommend using any pc boards as they will attract attention and its easier to just solder a diode between 2 pieces of wire and heatshrink the whole thing. 6. no loud colors on your heatshrink. stock. everytime you use loud colors of heatshrink or electrical tape, jesus kicks an easter bunny. good luck. btw, if you fry your stuff that is your problem. if you pick a good circuit to interrupt, read a little about electricity, and follow directions, you should be fine. if you have any problems email me. ill try to help and add it to this guide. dont email me car specific questions, as i probably wont be able to answer them. copywrite ngook.com please link to this page, as opposed to copying it.
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